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Installation · Lighting
Low voltage outdoor lighting fails in one of two ways: a transformer with nothing left in reserve, or runs so long that the last fixture is visibly dimmer than the first. Both are arithmetic, and both are decided before a spade goes in the ground.
Two things that go wrong
A low voltage system steps 120 volts down to 12 at a transformer, and everything after that depends on sizing it properly.
The second failure is voltage drop. Push a long run of small cable and the fixtures at the far end sit visibly dimmer than the ones near the transformer.
The fix is not more power: it is splitting the run, or using heavier cable, both decided by calculation before anything is trenched. Anything near water is a separate requirement, which hot tub and pool wiring covers.
The supply side matters too. The transformer needs a weatherproof outdoor point to feed it, and that is frequently the actual job. Where there is no exterior circuit, outlet and switch installation covers what an exterior receptacle needs, and surge protection is worth a thought for anything with electronics sitting outside.
How it runs
What you actually want lit looks different after dark. Paths, steps and the things worth showing are chosen then, not from a plan view.
Load calculated with headroom for later, and cable sized so the far fixtures match the near ones.
Proper depth, direct burial cable, gel-filled connections. This is the part you will never see and the part that decides whether it lasts.
Fixtures aimed after dark, timer or photocell set, and the whole system left balanced rather than just switched on.
Cost, and what lasts
Installed fixtures run $100 to $250 each, including the fitting itself and its share of the wiring and labour. The transformer is $200 to $500 installed. Pricing depends on run lengths and how much trenching the layout needs rather than on the fixture count alone.
What separates a system that lasts from one that does not is underground. Direct burial cable at proper depth with connections made in gel-filled fittings will outlive the fixtures.
Cable laid shallow under mulch and joined with tape will not survive a couple of winters, and finding the failure afterwards is slower than doing it properly first. The same trench discipline applies to garage and shop wiring, and grounding and bonding explains why the earth path outdoors matters more than indoors.
Controls are the last decision. A timer, a photocell or a smart controller all work; what matters is that whichever one you choose is rated for outdoor use and reachable without a ladder. If the run is going near a driveway you may also be planning a level 2 charger, and one trench is cheaper than two.
Related work
The weatherproof supply the transformer needs.
Learn moreIf a trench is going in anyway, share it.
Learn moreWorth it for anything with electronics outdoors.
Learn moreThe indoor half of the same conversation.
Learn moreCommon questions
Came back at dusk to aim them properly instead of setting them in daylight.
Sized the transformer with room to spare. We added four more the next spring with no rework.
Split a long run rather than letting the far end go dim. All of them match.
Proper depth and gel joints. Third winter and nothing has failed.
From the blog
Next step
We walk it after dark, size the transformer with headroom, and price it per fixture in writing.
Walked at dusk · Transformer sized with headroom · Per-fixture pricing